Pangong Tso (Lake) and along the Indus

 

Now heres a real Munchkin. Marmots are amazing little fellows choosing to live only above 4000m. They delighted me whenever the roads got high. I thought of names for them: Milo, Molly, Marmelade and Marmite. A good start, so I thought.
Now heres a real Munchkin. Marmots are amazing little fellows choosing to live only above 4000m. They delighted me whenever the roads got high. I thought of names for them: Milo, Molly, Marmelade and Marmite. A good start, so I thought.
The amazing salt water Pang gong Tso (lake) is around 20km long and 4km wide and is shared at by India and Tibet at an icey 4200m.
The amazing salt water Pang gong Tso (lake) is around 20km long and 4km wide and is shared at by India and Tibet at an icey 4200m.
We stayed with Tenzin and Tsering at their modest little house in the village of Spagmik on the lakes edge. Both are teachers in the village and live here year round where temperatures drop to -30degrees and for some months the 5400m pass is closed.
We stayed with Chongchuk and Tsering at their modest little house in the village of Spagmik on the lakes edge. Both are teachers in the village and live here year round where temperatures drop to -30degrees and for some months the 5400m pass is closed.
Grandad and grandma now have to tend to the fields, perhaps the last of the farmers as Tenzin and Tsering are now teaching and their 2 children are at school in Leh (6hrs bus ride away). An example of how modernisation splits up the family. Grandad and grandma now have to tend to the fields, perhaps the last of the farmers as Chongchuk and Tsering are now teaching and their 2 children are at school in Leh (6hrs bus ride away). An example of how modernisation splits up the family.

 

We insisted on helping them collect the husks for the animals. While Grandma accepted my help she wouldnt allow me to carry the 20kg bale on my back ( i probably wouldnt have managed either!).
We insisted on helping them collect the husks for the animals. While Grandma accepted my help she wouldnt allow me to carry the 20kg bale on my back ( i probably wouldnt have managed either!).
Effortlessly grandma carried 20kg bags of husk for half the day before moving onto doing something else in the fields. Effortlessly grandma carried 20kg bags of husk for half the day before moving onto doing something else in the fields.

 

Grandad, enjoyed the break and supervised our labour (like it should be!)
Grandad, enjoyed the break and supervised our labour (like it should be!)
The road to Kargil was as impressive, follwoing the milky green Indus, we crossed more passes and followed the Zanskar range on our right. Monastries dotted the way until Mulbeck. Thereafter religion changed to Islam adding another interesting dimension.
The road to Kargil was as impressive, follwoing the milky green Indus, we crossed more passes and followed the Zanskar range on our right. Monastries dotted the way until Mulbeck. Thereafter religion changed to Islam adding another interesting dimension.
Beautiful skies, landscapes and yaks, what more could we ask for?
Beautiful skies, landscapes and yaks, what more could we ask for?
The crumbling monastry of Bazco, an exquisite village
The crumbling monastry of Bazco, an exquisite village
More scenary, and it just kept on getting  better!
More scenary, and it just kept on getting better!
A giant 20m golden buddha overlooks Likker Monastry
A giant 20m golden buddha overlooks Likker Monastry
A monks prayer book and beads, donations on the side.
A monks prayer book and beads, donations on the side.
The amazing Lamayuru Monastry is built on the edge of an ancient drained lake.
The amazing Lamayuru Monastry is built on the edge of an ancient drained lake.
The Nakee-la pass also marked the instantaneous change from Buddhist to Muslim...now we have just left the Indus and are on our way to Kargil.
The Nakee-la pass also marked the instantaneous change from Buddhist to Muslim...now we have just left the Indus and are on our way to Kargil.
Dramatic landscapes everywhere
Dramatic landscapes everywhere
Still in the rainshadow - love this little green splash!
Still in the rainshadow - love this little green splash!
Little girls collecting dung (for fuel) after school.
Little girls collecting dung (for fuel) after school.

Bridget Ringdahl

Pedaling has been natural to me since the tender age of three. Cycling is practical, fun, it gets you to the corner café, across countries, continents, keeps you fit and is by far the most efficient and environmentally friendly transport option around, being virtually carbon neutral.

I live in Howick, KwaZulu-Natal which is great cycling country, within 10 minutes I can be bouncing along some of the finest single tracks in the province.

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